Saturday, 15 October 2011

Wolves, the crack cocaine of wildlife watching

If you ever visit Yellowstone the best tip we have was given to us by Lisa and Dave an awesome couple who we met in Alaska and live in Gardiner just above Yellowstone. Base yourself at Slough Creek campsite, get up an hour to half hour before sunrise and drive through the Lamar Valley towards Cooke City. Stop when you see a yellow Xterra SUV and about ten other cars.

The conspicious yellow SUV is owned by the wolf project worker who is armed with a scope, a radio tracking device and an army of amateur wolf watchers.


Rick and his yellow Xterra, you can't miss him.


The Lamar valley where we saw all 11 wolves from the Lamar canyon pack.  A grey Alpha female no. 9, her two husbands both black no's 754 and 755.  754 had a limp and had had it for about 6 weeks, we felt really sorry for him trying to keep up with the pack.  There are then two groups of four pups, one from this year and one from last who haven't left the pack yet.


Brewing up a quick coffee on the stove, trying not to miss any action while we do


Arrive early to get a good spot


Wolves killed an Elk during the night and the carcass is in the creek in the photo above just at the left end of the horizontal yellow streak of vegetation.


A retired policewoman from Oxford called Sian has been watching the wolves for the past ten years.  She had a fantastic telescope with an HD eyepiece which we took some photos through.  She watched the wolves chase the elk into the creek as it got dark the previous night and thought the elk would be safe....as the sun came up the next morning we saw a carcass, already eaten to the ribs.


A grey wolf chases a cheeky magpie off the carcass.  


The lamar valley, a scenic spot for the carcass, the wolves were also kind enough to make the kill in easy view of the road.


We we're now hooked.  It was a bit like a soap opera, every night we watched the goings on at the carcass til it got dark and during the day we watched from sunrise and knew if we left to go and see anything else in the park something good would happen.  We'd already missed some howling by a pup that got separated from the rest of the pack but thought we'd better risk missing out again and see the other good wildlife watching area Hayden valley.


A group of stopped cars is always a good sign in Yellowstone and this time in the Hayden valley a couple had had to do an emergency stop as a grizzly bear ran out in front of their car, across the road and down to this river which it swam across (sadly we missed that).  It was now on the other side chewing a Bison skull which was completely white indicating it must be pretty old, it then began chewing on the hide, trying to pull a bit off and getting rancid grey slime all over its face.  The hide looked grey/green colour as the bear dragged it up the bank. This is when we realised how lucky the Alaskan bears are.  We'd watched them in the salmon filled rivers, catching a slamon, biting it and if the fish was a male dropping it back in the water, they only eat the females and eggs. While Koidak bears get to live on caviar these poor Yellowstone bears have to make do with chewing on a moldy old Bison hide. We think the rhetoric about Alaskan bears being the toughest is rubbish, they are just the fattest, after all you wouldn't call the fattest people the best specimens of all humanity, for our money bears in the lower forty eight are much tougher as they really have to work to stay alive.


Rancid bison skin, yum yum!


Dragging the grey slimy hide out of the water.  The photo is bad because I took it through my binoculars.


As predicted when we went back to the elk carcass a grizzly was on it.  The can smell a carcass from miles away.  The hardcore wolf watchers like Sian filled us in on all the details of the grizzly's arrival.  You can just see the hind leg of the elk to the right of the bear, paler brown.


It had obviously been an exhausting day for the bear, he lay on the bony carcass and made it look very comfortable.  


Ralph was glued to the action.


Next the alpha female returned to taunt the bear.  He responded by making sure he was standing all over the carcass at all times which looked like it was playing Twister.  She was relentless and kept standing right next to the bear, both of them pretended not to notice each other but were obviously keeping a close eye out.



At one point the wolf managed to avoid the bears swipe and escape with a rib.  We watched them until it was too dark to see any more.  When we returned at sunrise the following day the bear had spent the night lying on top of the carcass!


Poor 'Limpy' or no. 754


It took a while to perfect the digiscoping but Ralph got pretty good, this is the bear standing all over the carcass, trying to keep the crows off it.  


Another contender for the carcass, a bald eagle, there was also a golden eagle, 3 coyotes, 11 wolves, crows, ravens, magpies and many more all making use of the one poor elk.


Time for a lie down after hassling the bear for a while.


yum, fresh elk beats the minging bison skin


wolf vs bear - Face off




I loved watching moments where the bear and wolf pretended not to notice one another


Getting closer


Closer



Tuesday, 11 October 2011

road trip


We are now on the road from Portland for 6 weeks hoping to visit 10 more national parks which will make our grand total of US national parks visited 15, plus the 5 Canadian parks in the Rockies.  Hopefully we'll have some exciting updates from these parks........


Someone transporting a huge tyre for some reason


Ralph liked this 'danger of lorries tipping over on the bend' sign on the road that follows the Columbia river gorge.


Drinving from Portland, Oregon to Spokane, Washington


Dramatic rainy sky at sunset.  The habitat was dry and dusty all the way with huge wheat fields that had no boundaries, they just went on and on.



pedalling through Portland


Our second couch surfing hosts had spare bicycles and by bike is definitely the best way to see Portland.


A tramp and his wheels


Yes you guessed it.... Ralph ate here



Mount Hood from the top of Mt Tabor which we cycled to the top of.  Portland lies on top of an extinct Plio-Pleistocene volcanic field known as the Boring Lava Field.[32] The Boring Lava Field includes at least 32 cinder cones such as Mount Tabor,[33] and its center lies in Southeast Portland.


I ended up spending some of the $100 on a hair cut in order to stop people giving me money on the street - hhhhmmm perhaps that was stupid

Sidney and Randy our couchsurfing hosts had an awesome outdoor area with decking, it was really cool as they built it to incorporate the tree that was already growing there.  They live a short cycle ride from downtown Portland in a lovely leafy suburb.


Randy and Sidney had us out on bikes within minutes of arriving at their house. Sidney guided us to downtown across the Willamette river on a bridge the bridge has a section in the middle that lifts up for tall ships to go under.  (See photo below).  







Fiona and Sidney at the traffic lights







Portland has two street events every month on the last and first thursday of every month http://lastthursdaypdx.ning.com/ http://www.firstthursdayportland.com/ .

We cycled up to Alberta street at night to witness "last thursday". The street was closed to cars until 11pm, there were loads of stalls selling hand made stuff like painted lighters, cake hats (very niche) , paintings and keyrings. There was lots of music, African drums, native american drums and singing, Breakdancing and quite a few DJ's. It was quite like Camden but with more families and less drinking.  The US is really weird about alcohol in most places especially drinking in public - Why can't they just let everyone vomit on the street like we do?


Random artiness


The pedal bar


A double bike, twice the fun


Pedalling with attitude - Randy lent Ralph his helmet complete with rear view mirror.

On the way to 'Last Thursday we stumbled across a TV programme being filmed.  We only knew to cycle up hill about 20 blocks and then look out for a street that's closed and that's where the Last Thursday would be. I saw a cordoned off road and some people and vehicles and thought it must be what we're looking for but it turned out to be filming for 'Grim'.  We did think it was a bit of a quiet street party!





Take that Mrs Palin


Us with Sidney and Randy at their lovely house in a rare moment when we were all there at the same time as they are both extremely busy people, always cycling off somewhere.  Randy did us a fantastic all American 'cookout' on the deck.  They are off to Mexico soon so we may well catch up with them there. 

Thursday, 6 October 2011

Keep Portland weird

Portland is a really great place.  It is basically a scaled up Totnes with worse architecture but much better cycling infrastructure.  On our first day in town we saw a man who was wearing blue all over including facepaint, but not Blueman group style, he had his own style as he also donned Lawrence of Arabia style blue headgear.   Minutes before we had seen a man walking around town with a parrot and the guy we asked directions from in the coffee shop didn't even know what day of the week it was - As I say a twin of my home town Totnes.  

The crowning glory of our Portland experience for pure weirdness had to be when we were walking to the bus stop, past some of Portland's vast array of strip joints (Fiona wanted to go in but Ralph didn't let her)  with our back packs.  A very weather beaten guy staggered up to us and said "are you guys travelling" we said yes we were doing a tour of America, he said "I hear you, I have travelled about so much I have worn out my shoes" he then thrust a hundred dollar bill into my hand, both Fiona and me said don't be silly you need it and tried to give it back.  He produced another handful of hundred dollar bills, beer still in hand (it was about 10:30am). He then walked off waving his hand as we offered back the money. I noticed that he had something similar to extra tough wellies on http://www.x-tough.com/xtratuf-16-copper-tan-neoprene-safety-boot/ almost everyone in Alaska has a pair of these. 

We can only think he was a fisherman (average pay for the summer 40K) that was demob happy after getting off the boat and out on the town. Whoever you were thank you very much and we hope you didn't regret it too much when you sobered up. So far we have given $25 to BARK a local environmental charity and I also got a haircut.

We spent our first two nights couchsurfing in Portland with Ben, Serina, Mae, Cody and Eddy. They had a really nice house, dogs and chickens.  Ben had helped do spotted owl research and gave us a demo of his owl calling skills.  We cooked dinner for them one night which was a bit scary as Serina is a chef!  She said it was nice though.


Cody helping Fiona and Mae cook at her kitchen mad by her Grandad



All the gang


Ralph bonding with the dogs, even on sport mode the camera couldn't catch Eddy


Serina and Ben's house


Cody and Eddie  (has more than a passing resemblance to Monty minus the lion's mane) our couchsurfing hosts dogs


Doughnut mecca, a must for any Portland visitor


The choice is pretty mindblowing and being a 'crunchy' (groovy granola eating) town it includes vegan options


Magic


Cool stained glass above the door


It was suitably bohemian


Classy


yum


We chose a vodoo doll and an portland cream


Elelphant scultpure (this has to be a contender for the most pointless caption yet)


Yeee -ha, Brian blessed tries out for the upcoming Unforgiven remake


The salmon in America are much bigger and therefore jump much higher


A pod of food carts, the official collective noun!


Powell's book -the largest independent bookshop in the US.

Please note this is your last chance to see Ralphs big Alaskan beard........